Japanese tailoring

 

In order to learn about Japanese bespoke, an acquaintance introduced me to a bespoke tailor in Tokyo.

 

Tailoring in Japan has developed its own technology.

The method of drawing the paper pattern is created with an emphasis on calculation.Based on the size of the chest, we will calculate the ratio and size each part.There is a size balance calculation formula that fits the Japanese, and the dimensions are applied to it.As a result, clothes with well-proportioned clothes can be created.Since the body shape of Japanese people is different from that of Europeans and Americans, is there a method of matching the body to the clothes?

I heard that Japanese tailors used to gather and hold many study sessions.There were many factions, and I can imagine that everyone was discussing whether it was not ah or not.

Because Japanese and British people are of different races, it is not possible to wear a cool outfit just as I was taught.However, in order to match this wonderful clothes to the Japanese body type, our predecessors must have used their wisdom to create the current Japanese bespoke style.

In any case, I can feel the skill and effort of our predecessors who struggled to make suits, which are foreign clothes, better suited to Japanese people.

 

Japanese tailoring techniques differ in some details, such as the slightly different way to make buttonholes, but I think the most important feature is the following:Japanese people are methodicalThat means.

I thought he was really good with his hands.

During my apprenticeship in England, I had never seen a tailor who carefully sews details that no one else can see.

The place to prioritize in making is different.There may also be national characteristics.

I feel that emphasizing the beauty of the finish is a characteristic of Japanese bespoke.I thought that this kind of technique, such as fixing the parts with glue before sewing, is also a technique that shows how you want to sew beautifully.

I think it's a very Japanese way of making things, carefully creating even the smallest details and invisible parts.

Japanese bespoke clothes are popular in Asia right now, and I think that's part of the appeal.

 

I think I was able to learn the spirit of Japanese bespoke and deepen the charm and technology of bespoke.

 

 

Learn pattern order suit 

 
It's sudden, but do you know what is called "pattern order suit"?

There are many types of custom suits.

For bespoke, we measure the customer's body and create a "pattern" from scratch based on the measurements.

Cut the fabric and interlining along the paper pattern and sew it by hand.Handmade from start to finish.Customers who orderedOnly one suit in the worldis.

In the case of pattern orders, there are ready-made size samples available, and we will select the size that is closest to the customer's body shape and give instructions on how to adjust the length and width.Among them, according to the characteristics of the body such as the slope of the shoulder (stroking shoulder / angry shoulder) and the stoopcorrectionThere are also things you can do.Sewing is done at the factory.

 

At the time, Arakawa may not have known about it, but I think Japan was the only country with custom-made pattern suits that could be adjusted.

Wanting to know more about custom-made suits, Arakawa decided to work at a specialty store to learn what pattern-made suits are.

 

Pattern-order suits require more measurements than bespoke suits.For that reason, even if there is no special technique, anyone with some knowledge can measure.

 

By the way, the bespoke tailors who are familiar with the structure of the suit measure the pattern order suit, and the quality of the measurement is already high, isn't it?

Do not you think so?

 

actually,Even if it is an order suit, pattern order and bespoke are completely different things.That's how it was.

 

The number one difference iscorrectionwas.

 

Each factory has its own way of correcting the pattern order, and there are rules about the position and amount of correction.

It was completely different from the method and location of correction when putting in a bespoke.

Correction is originally something to put in according to the characteristics of each person's body.If you don't do the correct correction according to the person, you won't be able to finish it beautifully.It's fine as long as it matches the corrections determined by the factory, but not everyone agrees.

After all, even if it is an order, in factory production,in detailIt is impossible to exceed the limit of mass productionabout it.

I think this is the big difference between automation and handmade.

 

When I evaluated a suit that could be convincing even with a pattern order from the perspective of a bespoke tailor, the answer I arrived at was that "no corrections should be made."

Originally, the patterns for pattern-ordered suits are well made, and most of them use patterns that are easy to match the body shape of Japanese people.Therefore, in many cases, the image is beautifully finished even without correction.

Of course, even with the correction at the factory, a suit that fits the customer's body shape is completed.However, because I am a bespoke tailor, I am concerned about the details.I said it's an evaluation, but I'm just worried about it unilaterally.

If you're worried about it, don't force the correction! This is what a pattern order is, and this is the most satisfying finish.

 

 

through customer service

 

We want to provide our customers with suits that are more comfortable, more beautiful, and more satisfying.I worked with such hope as a bespoke tailor.

I was very grateful to have customers from early on when I joined the company.

When I was in England, I had a lot of work as a subcontractor for my master, and I didn't have the opportunity to serve customers.

The joys and worries of customers who directly receive them on the front line, which cannot be understood just by making them.This is very important information for creators, and I realized that this is also "bespoke".

 The word "Bespoke" comes from the English word "be-spoken" and means "to talk".

Through the experience of serving customers, I learned that it is only when we get to know each other, get to know ourselves, and understand the needs of customers that good products can be created.

This may be taken for granted in the hospitality industry, but it was a very important experience for Arakawa, who had only known work as a craftsman.

  

  

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