[Naples Edition] The Struggle of a Bespoke Tailor ⑨

About Kiton

KITON is a luxury brand representing Italy.

This is the ultimate ready-to-wear garment, incorporating bespoke techniques.

It's no exaggeration to say that it's the best in the world. Working in such a factory is like a dream come true.

Kiton has over 300 craftsmen. Each one of them is a "sarto" (craftsman) who can sew a complete garment. Each "sarto" divides the work into each part to complete one garment, which is a luxurious way of making garments.

Kiton's site is very large and there are three factories on the premises.

The three lines are Kiton1 (jackets), Kiton2 (shirts, second line "Sartorio", women's clothing), and Kiton3 (shoes, pants, ties, school), and each item is manufactured in a designated place.

"Kiton's Salts"

Chosen Craftsman

Arakawa joined Kiton1 (the factory that makes jackets).

That's where I met Ciro Cuomo .

Ciro is an Italian who speaks English, and during his stay he was concerned about Arakawa in many ways, even outside of work.

Among Kiton's highest-end models, there is a line called "Mod. LASA" . The number of items produced per year is limited, and it is said to be difficult to even get your hands on this masterpiece.

I heard that Rasa is made by a single craftsman at Kiton ...

And Ciro, who is standing before him, is that craftsman.

Amazingly, Arakawa had the opportunity to help out the talented craftsman Ciro with his work and learn Kiton tailoring techniques directly from him.

<<Kiton1 status.>>

Here, the fabric is cut.

"Even when working, I wear a shirt, tie, and leather shoes. Many people wear casual clothes that are easy to move in, but some people dress up nicely. It's good to work in clothes that make you feel good. Ciro also wore a suit to work every day."

Mod.LASA

I will never forget the shock I felt when I put on the rasa for the first time.

The moment I put it on, I was surprised at how it felt like it clung to my shoulders.

It feels light and sits comfortably on your shoulders, yet looks neat.

I couldn't help but wonder, "Why did the jacket turn out like this?"

After this shocking experience, I couldn't help but tell him that I would like to try making rasa myself, and he gladly agreed.

By actually making it, I wanted to gain a deeper understanding of the technology involved.

Ciro provided us with 100% cashmere fabric from Kiton to create Arakawa's own rasa.

I offered to pay for the fabric, but they gave it to me for free. They had found it in the back of the store, so it may have been some unwanted stock, but I was surprised at their generosity. Of course, I was grateful to receive it.

Why Kiton is so luxurious

What I learned from Ciro about making the rasa was a constant source of shock.

It was completely different from what I had learned and created up until then.

The British tailoring that I have learned so far is based on making the shoulders sturdy. This gives the garment a dignified look and makes it comfortable to wear.

British tailoring can be summed up in one word as elegant . Neapolitan tailoring, on the other hand, is relaxed . I thought they were the polar opposites.

①How to sew

The basic principle is to sew "relaxedly." It's difficult to put into words, but it's about not pulling too hard, sewing gently, and placing each stitch one by one. The image is of the thread being placed in place, tap, tap.

This was surprisingly difficult and I had to try again and again.

Because the fabric itself is soft, the amount of force used when sewing must be adjusted carefully to create comfortable clothing.

② Adhesive interfacing

Kiton does not use adhesive interlining to maintain softness.

In automated factories that make ready-made products, they often use fusible interfacing to make it easier for anyone to use. This holds the fabric in place and makes it easier to sew.

Making products without using adhesive interlining is possible because each and every person in our team is a craftsman and it is a handmade factory.

③Fabric

The fabrics used are also of high quality.

Kiton has a fabric manufacturer called "CARLO BARBERA" under its umbrella.

Barbera creates special fabrics just for Kiton. The quality, pattern, color, and material are all exclusive and only the most luxurious fabrics are used.

Because no adhesive interlining is used, you can directly feel the quality of these high-quality materials .

It's a misconception that if the fabric is good, it will make a good suit!

The finest fabrics can only show their true beauty when they are tailored to the highest standard .

"Kiton's fabric storehouse. It looks like a treasure trove from the Arakawa River."

{The word "KITON" is printed on the edge of the fabric}

They have skilled tailors who make clothes using special fabrics.

All the answers to the question "Why is Kiton so luxurious?" are here.

I felt very honored to be able to receive such top-class technical instruction and to be able to be a part of creating a top-class product.

This is manufacturing that we can be proud of.

About the school in Kiton3

Are you curious about the schools in Kiton3 ?

You might be wondering, "Why is there a school inside a factory?"

At Kiton, we train future factory workers from the ground up and preserve our artisan culture.

Moreover, it is backed by the Italian government.

Thanks to this support, tuition is free until the age of 29.

"I can learn Kiton's technology for free!" Arakawa thought, feeling quite envious.

Students and teachers studying at school

Jackets made by students

Ciro Paone's passion continues to this day

Kiton's founder , Ciro Paone , established Kiton with the aim of passing on the Neapolitan tailoring culture to future generations .

With assistance from the Italian government, I believe that this sentiment is being carried on firmly.

A system to maintain it as a "culture representing Naples."

An environment for nurturing craftsmen and ensuring that their skills are preserved.

Furthermore, being a craftsman is a coveted profession among the people of Naples.

Arakawa was very impressed by these things.

Coming to Naples not only taught me the techniques, but I also felt that the passion of Ciro Paone that I felt here taught me the path I should take.

⬇️⬇️⬇️

January 2023 at Hankyu Men's Osaka

Mod.LASA, which was created during the training in Naples, was on display on the first floor of Hankyu Men's Osaka.

"Do-henai" A man with kaleidoscope

A "fanatic" who has taken his passion to the extreme.
We introduce 10 handpicked people who have their own unique preferences.

I am grateful to have been selected as one of them.

An interview with us was also published on the Hankyu Men's Osaka website.

You can see from here .

Event period: 1/18-1/31, 2023

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